Creating masculinity from the fabric up.
Does fabric need to be beautiful?
Uniform, orderly, and without creases. Of course, fabrics like that are good too.
But I think clothes for men suit a little roughness.
Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.
<cantáte>
"Linen Washi Shirt Blouson"
¥71,500 TAX IN
"Linen Washi M51 Cargo Pants"
¥82,500 TAX IN
This time, we used a densely woven fabric with fine-count linen in the warp and washi paper in the weft.
First of all, it feels remarkably dry to the touch.
The dry feel of linen is combined with the body of washi paper. And it has considerably more weight than its appearance suggests.
It’s by no means lightweight. If anything, it has substantial weight.
Yet its weight doesn’t make it feel stifling.
It doesn’t cling to the skin; when worn, the fabric sits slightly away from the body.
This fabric’s ability to stay away from the skin is what makes it interesting.
Creases aren’t erased; they’re created.
As a finishing treatment, we apply a very strong wash. The aim is the so-called lightning⚡️-like creases.
Irregular, rugged creases run across the fabric. We deliberately disrupt an otherwise orderly surface.
Normally, you try to prevent creases as much as possible. But with this garment, it’s the opposite.
The creases create shading across the surface. Because the fabric is substantial, that relief remains clearly visible.
As you wear it in, more character develops, creating contrast between the areas that wear and those that remain. It isn’t finished when new; wearing it makes it increasingly rugged.
That’s what makes it masculine.
A shirt’s comfort, with a blouson’s presence
That’s what we made in this fabric: Shirt Blouson.
As the name suggests, it sits between a shirt and a blouson. Visually, however, it leans strongly toward a blouson.
Because the fabric has weight and body, it maintains a clear outline even when worn alone. From the shoulders through the sleeves, it doesn’t collapse softly; the lines remain.
Even so, the construction remains, as much as possible, an extension of a shirt.
All structural seams are folded and enclosed. The seam allowances are kept off the exterior, and the amount of information inside has been reduced as thoroughly as possible.
The outside is rugged. But the inside is quiet.
I really like this contrast.
There are no excess seam allowances pressing against the body when worn, so despite its strong appearance, it feels gentle against the body.
The volume is created through the pattern rather than unnecessary decoration. The way it falls from the shoulders into the sleeves is also adjusted through the lines themselves, not by adding more panels or details.
It has the presence of a blouson, but I didn’t want the comfort to feel heavy.
That’s the balance.
M-51 is an easy-to-wear pair of pants.
I also made M-51 Pants in the same fabric.
The M-51 already has a naturally masculine strength: a wide silhouette, large cargo pockets, and the ruggedness of military garments.
This time, while retaining that character, I’ve brought it slightly closer to everyday wear.
The silhouette is distinctly wide. The waist is neatly fitted, then the shape falls naturally from the thighs to the hem.
Because the fabric has substantial weight, the lines don’t blur even at this width. As you walk, large creases form at the knees and thighs, and the fabric sags. Including that movement, these are highly masculine pants.
The cargo pockets and flaps aren’t made to look excessively large. The top button is buffalo horn, and the front zipper is TALON.
These details aren’t there simply to show off a vintage aesthetic.
I want to choose things that properly settle into you after being handled repeatedly and worn for years.
The strength of a garment doesn’t come from flashy details; it emerges through continued use.
Rugged, but not careless
Worn as a set, they have a striking presence.
Lightning-like creases, a dry texture, and substantial weight. These are by no means delicate clothes.
But it isn’t simply rugged, either.
The seam allowances are neatly enclosed, the lines are refined, and anything unnecessary is removed.
It’s rugged, but not careless.
I think that’s probably what masculinity is.
It’s not about making it look bigger or stronger. It’s about doing nothing unnecessary while still having a clear presence.
It’s easy to make it look more obviously military-inspired.
Just make the pockets larger, add more details, and make it look more “authentic.”
But now, rather than bringing things over as they are, I find it more interesting to step back and rethink them.
I leave some ruggedness in the fabric. I leave some quietness in the shape.
For me, the balance of those two feels just right at this point in my life.
Not too polished. Not too lightweight.
Ruggedness and refinement. When both are present, they become the kind of menswear I believe in.
cantáte Matsushima Shin
