Why Matsushima-san often wore it.

 

When you hear the word "jacket," don't you feel a little guarded?

It is good that wearing one makes you look polished. But it can feel like workwear, and I sometimes struggle with how to style it with my everyday clothes. Even I cannot casually wear just any jacket.

Hello. I'm Tomioka from cliché.

<cantáte>

" Double Cloth Directors Jacket "

COL : NOIR

¥275,000TAX IN

 

cantáte's Directors Jacket was designed with people in mind who move between the sets of films, stage productions, and a variety of projects.

Moving around all day, meeting people, and heading to the next place. You cannot think only about clothes, but it is better to look put-together wherever you go. This is a jacket like a uniform for people like that.

Even as a uniform, it is not meant for wearing the same outfit every day. Change your trousers or shoes, and you can still simply throw this on and head out. That is what makes it a uniform.

It looks polished when you throw it on, yet feels effortless to wear.

Last season, it was made from a double weave combining cotton and French linen. The fabric was light despite having a moderate fullness, with the crispness of linen and the softness of cotton. It also stayed away from the skin, making it easy to throw on even in hot weather.

Matsushima also wore this cotton-linen version very often. I had seen it on him repeatedly at the shop, so I wondered if there was some special reason he liked it and asked him. He simply let slip, "It is comfortable."

Since he made it himself, I'm sure he could talk at length about the fabric and construction if asked. But when I asked why he wears it regularly, that was all he said. I thought, "Ah, it really is comfortable."

As a clothing shop, I tend to want to explain every detail of why it works. But when someone who repeatedly wears a garment they made says, "It is comfortable," that communicates something before any explanation does.

This season, the same shape is made from merino wool double-face fabric.

It is a double weave using merino wool for both the warp and weft. It is warm and gives the fabric a springy feel.

Because it has some weight, I initially wondered, "Is this a little heavy?" But once I put it on, it was surprisingly light. The fabric follows your movements, while the jacket retains its beautiful shape when you're standing still.

I thought the balance here was just right. Even clothes that are easy to wear can lose their character as a jacket if they are too soft. This fabric has body and resilience, so even when you wear it with relaxed shoulders, it never looks sloppy.

The spring-summer cotton-linen had a light, slightly lustrous appearance. This time, the mood is matte and subdued. Even in the same shape, changing the material makes such a difference. If you saw last season's version, I hope you'll first feel this season's fabric for yourself.

It is constructed with a half-lined back. The body is lined with cotton and rayon, while the sleeves use striped cupro. It is designed to slide on easily and prevent heat from building up across the back.

You may not pay much attention to the type of lining while wearing a garment. But details like these make a difference when putting it on in the morning or wearing it for long hours. All the more so for something you wear almost every day.

Details that usually remain unseen have been carefully considered too, including the piping, star tacking, and hand stitching around the collar and the inner shoulder seams. The buttons are matte genuine buffalo horn. Rather than simply refining the visible parts, the jacket has been designed with the places the wearer touches and moves in mind.

When you understand these details, you realize that there are solid reasons behind Matsushima's simple comment: "It's comfortable."

I would pair it with Denim Tapered Trousers. Wearing it neatly with slacks is also nice, but denim softens the jacket's tailored feel a little. I think it's an easy combination to wear as an extension of your everyday wardrobe.

Even with denim, the impression changes depending on the width and shape. A tapered pair narrows neatly toward the feet, creating a good balance when paired with a jacket and leather shoes. That's the kind of styling I'd like to start with.

The buttons that extend all the way to the lapel are another interesting detail. Buttoned to the top, it creates a close-fitting neckline with a look slightly different from that of an ordinary jacket. It gives a different impression from wearing it open, so I hope you'll try both.

Button it all the way up in the morning, then open it as the temperature rises. You can change the mood to suit how you spend the day while wearing the same jacket.

I also feel that not having to commit to just one way of wearing it makes it easier to reach for.

Not every day is one when you gear yourself up and say, "Today, I'm wearing a jacket." There are also mornings when you're unsure what to wear, so you can simply throw it on and head out.

I think Matsushima wore it so often last season because it offered that kind of ease. Clothes you don't have to think twice about wearing naturally get more time in rotation.

Please try on this season's wool first. It's far more comfortable than it looks.

Before you know it, it may have become your everyday uniform, supporting you through busy days.

 

cliché Tomioka