— Cotton Corduroy / Forestière Jacket —
A reconstruction, through cantáte’s perspective, of the Forestière, one of the jackets emblematic of Parisian ARNYS (アルニス).
While retaining the Forestière’s distinctive collar and pockets, along with its relaxed presence, the materials, construction, and internal structure have all been reconsidered and rebuilt.
The outer fabric is wide-wale cotton corduroy.
The broad wales make the surface’s ridges and valleys especially distinct, creating tonal shading that shifts with the light. With a soft nap and moderate weight, the fabric gradually settles with wear, allowing its character to evolve.
The inside is not finished with a single lining throughout.
Three fabrics—cotton flannel, cotton-rayon, and a fabric made from raw cotton-silk yarn—are used according to each area and function.
The underside of the collar, elbow patches, piping, and buttonholes use finely textured, supple Entrefino lamb suede.
The suede’s smooth nap is layered against corduroy’s napped surface.
By using two similar yet distinct textures selectively in the details, the jacket gains depth even within a single color.
Extensive handwork also goes into the construction and finishing that are almost invisible from the outside.
Rather than refining only the completed appearance, the aim is for the reasons behind each construction choice to remain legible when the garment is turned inside out.
Rather than reproducing an old Forestière as it is, its form is retained while it is rebuilt anew from the materials themselves—wide-wale corduroy and suede.
A Forestière that becomes even better once wear has settled the wales and brought a sheen to the suede.
