— Fine-Grain Horsehide —
Horsehide made from European hides and chrome-tanned by a tannery in Himeji. After dyeing, it is treated with almost no pigment or heavy coating, deliberately preserving the leather's natural marks and wrinkles.
While three-year-old horse hides are normally used, this material deliberately selects hides from two-year-old horses.
Despite being chrome-tanned, the focus is on a fine-grained, supple texture.
Particular care was also given to the appearance of the black. After oiling, the leather is buffed to bring out rich depth and a natural sheen, creating a leather with a richly expressive character.
The base is a coach jacket.
Normally a light and simple garment, this piece has been redesigned from the inside out.
The front facing is constructed to support the placket from the inside.
The inner pocket is also integrated as part of the inner pattern, rather than simply being added on.
The body is lined with cotton moleskin, the sleeves with cotton-rayon. The pockets are lined with corduroy.
The inner construction has been redrawn with these materials in mind, rather than simply changing the fabrics.
From the outside, it is a simple coach jacket.
But once removed, it looks like an entirely different garment.
Not for the sake of lightness, nor for the sake of luxury. It is the result of bringing horsehide and this inner construction together in a simple pattern.
The exterior is quiet. The inside is extraordinarily labor-intensive.
This is a piece that embraces that imbalance exactly as it is.
