Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

Jackets may be chosen more often for their “overall feel” than slacks.

But in fact, “presence” is not accidental; it can only come from the accumulation of details.

Today, I would like to explain why cantáte jackets look so natural and beautiful──

Let me introduce a few of the reasons.

■ Why the collar holds its shape──the gorge and stitching

In the past, with the expectation that garments would be passed from parent to child, it was assumed that even the collar would be extensively altered.

Many collars now have an “imitation” gorge, but at cantáte we retain a fully functional gorge.

In addition, adding collar cloth and stitching to the collar stand is designed to create a beautiful roll.

It does not show in appearance, but it makes a difference in how settled the garment feels when worn.

■ The barchetta pocket has been “shaped”

Even if you put glasses in the breast pocket, it will probably “look as though nothing is inside.”

That is because the pocket opening is carefully shaped.

Originally, the only pocket made by hand in a suit was this barchetta pocket.

But at cantáte, all the pockets are made by hand.

Why? Because it looks better that way.

■ Soft flaps made without fusible interlining

The flaps and manipulation darts are all designed to be soft and follow the body’s lines.

I like a natural, unvarnished kind of good looks—not something hardened with makeup.

■ No collar stand, single-layer collar

cantáte’s jacket collars are single-layer collars without a collar stand.

It is a traditional construction in which a rectangular piece of fabric is shaped into a collar using only ironing.

But if you do that, the collar roll line is more likely to shift.

That is why we design the roll allowance with bar tacks. It is a subtle but important design philosophy.

■ The inner shoulder seam is “hand-sewn”

The greatest advantage of hand sewing is that the tension is gentle.

It also results in a thinner seam allowance.

cantáte’s inner shoulder seam is like a natural action pleat.

When worn, it naturally supports the range of motion around the shoulder blades.

■ AH (armhole) and sleeve-bottom finishing

The sleeve bottom has its seam allowance trimmed slightly so it does not rub against the underarm.

This alone dramatically reduces discomfort when you move.

We also gather the slack in the lining at the bottom of the sleeve with a bar tack.

Gathering the excess slack makes it smoother to put your arm through.

■ Thread loop

A small loop secures the underarm sweat pad so it does not flap around.

It is subtle, but you notice it a little when it is missing.

Clothing made by people who care is properly made even in details like these.

■ Triangular flap

It is one of the classic details, but

In fact, few brands can make them properly.

cantáte’s triangular flaps are carefully finished, including the corners.

You can understand it by looking, and understand it even better by touching.

■ Welt pockets at different angles

In fact, each pocket is set at a different angle.

Because that makes it feel natural when you put your hand in and makes it easier to take things in and out.

“Ease of use” cannot be understood at a glance.

But you will notice it as soon as you use it every day.

■ Tucks in the lining──so contents do not show through

When you put a wallet or card holder in the inner pocket,

The jacket is pulled downward by the weight, causing wrinkles in the outer fabric.

To prevent that, we add tucks to the lining.

When this makes a difference, the crisp look at first glance is completely different.

■ Stretch created by “hand-stitching” the side seam

When holding a train strap or driving a car,

Just a little “room” in the side seam makes it incredibly easy to move.

This mobility is made possible precisely because it is hand-stitched.

You cannot see it, but you should feel it.

■ Anti-flare tape in the side vents

You would take notice if a skirt flared up and revealed your pants, right?

Even a jacket’s vents look uncool if they flare out.

That is why cantáte incorporates anti-flare tape into the side vents.

A beautiful silhouette is determined by what is built into it.

■ Generous seam allowance in the sleeve lining

The lining is invisible, but when you sweat or bend your arms, any tightness can cause subtle stress.

At cantáte, we leave generous seam allowances in the sleeve lining so they do not restrict movement.

It uses more fabric, but the comfort is completely different.

■ “Mysterious stitches” and “tape” behind the side vents

Try turning over the side vents.

It does not show on the outside, but there are mysterious stitches and tape that appear when you turn it over.

This is an old specification devised to avoid using fusible interlining.

Because it is not glued, it will not peel off.

It is safe even when dry-cleaned.

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■ “Thread loop” in the unlined back

Because the small loop prevents the lining from being pulled unnecessarily,

The whole garment naturally blends into place.

Perhaps this is what you would call the “habits of clothing.”

Finally

At first glance, cantáte jackets are very simple.

Yet behind that simplicity is the handiwork of people who care.

Rather than standing out as “design,”

It follows the body naturally as a matter of “construction.”

That is a cantáte jacket.

The next time you try on a jacket,

The way the collar falls, how the sleeves hug, the depth of the pockets, the movement of the vents──

Please take a close look at the details.

I think you can immediately tell when you wear it whether it has been properly made, but

Understanding the reason is very important.I think.

In the next blog post, I'll tell you about slacks.

cantáte 松島 紳