Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

Since slacks have a simple appearance, you may find that they all look “the same.”

But when you look closely, you can see why they have such a good character.

Today, I’d like to introduce the small refinements incorporated into cantáte’s slacks.

If you are not paying attention, you will never notice it.

But it is the very essence of the atmosphere that can never be achieved without careful attention during construction.

 

 

■ “Finger-blocked pleats” for beautiful shadows

Even if you try to insert a finger into the pleat, it will not go in.

Because the inside is flattened with diagonal stitching.

The reason is simple: the shadows and highlights look more beautiful that way.

That’s all.

But whether they do “only that” or not determines the overall character of the slacks.

■ The belt loops are sewn and turned

cantáte’s belt loops are neither stitch-fastened nor Louis-style; they use the traditional sew-then-turn finish.

This construction prevents the belt from catching when threaded and stops friction from breaking the thread.

It used to be standard, but is now rarely seen.

■ The front-fly stitching is “hand-sewn”

cantáte’s slacks have a button-fly construction.

Compared with a zipper, more fabric overlaps, and because softness is required in the thickness and movement, the fly stitching is hand-sewn.

Hand sewing has neither a top thread nor a bobbin thread. That is precisely why it produces a soft, airy appearance.

That is what creates the “gentle drape” when worn.

■ How the belt loops are attached: upper taco, lower scissors

This construction would be overdoing it on jeans.

But this is standard in the world of dresswear.

 

The idea is to show no seam allowance either above or below; in shoes, it may evoke a “semi-crow,” a “seamless heel,” or, in belts, a “beveled edge.”

They are properly finished because someone is paying attention.

■ Split-bar double-welt pocket (9 mm)

A machine takes a few dozen seconds. By hand, each one takes more than 15 minutes.

Moreover, instead of 10 mm, it is deliberately finished at 9 mm.

Why?

We want you to see it and immediately feel, “This was made by hand.”

Moreover, because the shape has been pre-set, the pockets do not gape when worn.

■ CB split and hand-made gurikan

In reality, more people let out the waist than take it in.

And yet, most brands secure them with machine-sewn bartacks.

cantáte carefully finishes them with “gurikan,” which can only be made by hand.

There are no marks left, and alterations are possible.

I believe that is true consideration.

Moreover, many garments on the market have the baffling construction of having ample seam allowance at the seat curve but none at the waist.

It’s worth paying attention to when you buy them.

■ Extra-wide marbelt with hakama

This is a part that greatly affects comfort.

Slacks are garments worn with a marbelt, not a “belt”.

The marbelt has three purposes:

1. To conceal the seam allowance of the outer waistband

2. To keep the shirt from coming untucked (a non-slip function)

3. To stabilize the area around the “hip bone” below the waist

At cantáte, two hakama pieces are hand-stitched in place on either side of the side seam.

That is why the fit and sense of security when worn are different.

■ Pocket design that does not collect dirt

Turn the pocket lining of a well-worn pair of slacks or jeans inside out and take a look.

They’re usually dirty or full of lint… because they’re gross（笑）.

cantáte’s pockets are designed structurally to resist collecting dirt and to make any dirt easy to remove.

It may be understated, but details like this make a surprising difference.

■ Cut-edge and hand-stitched chesic

A “chesic” is the fabric that supports the golden balls.

In the past, people did not wear underwear and wrapped themselves with the shirt hem, so this was a lifeline.

At cantáte, this chesic is cut-edge finished and hand-stitched in place.

Furthermore, a chesic is hand-sewn to the fly extension, providing a snug support when worn.

It may be understated, but it makes the fit incredibly addictive.

■ Button-fly construction, hand-sewn of course

A zipper? It breaks.

Moreover, plastic ones cannot be repaired.

A button fly may look simple, but it is the No. 1 feature that no one will make for you even if you offer to pay more.

cantáte deliberately takes this seriously: basting, setting the canvas, and making the buttonholes in the correct positions.

You’ll understand once you wear them.

■ Hand-attached buttons

It may seem obvious, but hand-attached buttons are beautiful.

You can feel the difference both in how they wear and to the touch.

■ Generous seam allowance

Comfortable even if you gain weight. Adjustable if you lose weight.

cantáte’s slacks retain a generous amount of seam allowance.

The stable fit around the seat, in particular, owes much to this “room to spare.”

It is the room to spare that creates kindness and beauty.

■ Flat waistband finish

The waistband is visually thin and flat, but structurally finished with the seam allowances offset into layers so they do not press against you.

there is no bunching around the waist, and the line looks clean when worn.

Finally,

If you’ve read this far,

You may have felt, “Slacks are actually much more intricate than I thought.”

cantáte’s slacks are by no means flashy.

But “who is paying attention to what, and why”—

you’ll find that every one of these details has been built into this pair.

The next time you pick up a pair of slacks,

The corners of the pocket openings, the finishing of the belt loops, and the seam allowance at the seat curve, among other details,

Please take a look at the inside and the edges.

“Whether it has been properly made or not”

I believe that’s precisely where honesty reveals itself.

 

cantáte 松島 紳