Even with the same design, a change in material makes the garment an entirely different piece.

Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.

When spring and summer arrive,

Come spring and summer, what everyone wants from clothing suddenly becomes simple.

Light.

Cool.

Washable.

Comfortable.

Of course, there is nothing wrong with that in itself.

since it is hot, it is natural to want comfort.

But once you start choosing clothes based solely on those criteria,

They become boring somewhere along the way.

They are light, but unreliable.

They are cool, but make you look slight.

are comfortable to wear, but when you see yourself in the mirror, something feels a little lacking.

Spring/summer jackets,

I think there are many garments exactly like that.

You are wearing it in hot weather, so it cannot be helped.

It is better than being heavy.

Even if it does not look polished, staying cool is what matters.

can make that compromise.

But I,

The moment you accept that compromise, much of what makes clothing interesting is lost.

that is what I believe.

Because it is a jacket,

a certain degree of structure is still necessary.

Not merely something to throw on,

Having a little definition when you put it on.

Looking put-together without feeling tense.

Being comfortable without looking sloppy.

<cantáte>

"C/Li Double Cloth Directors Jacket"

COL : NOIR

¥308,000 TAX IN

※The cuffs are delivered unfinished.
If you would like the sleeves shortened, please feel free to contact us even when ordering through the online store.
Alterations will be charged, but please feel free to contact us for a consultation.

 

We made this to resolve that contradiction:

is this time’s Directors Jacket.

The Cashmere × Linen model we made previously,

It was truly exceptional, both in its materials and its tailoring.

that was a special piece, and I have a great deal of personal attachment to it.

But to be honest,

it was not something we could easily recommend from a price perspective.

In reality,

“I really love the concept, but it is beyond what I can afford.”

We heard that sentiment quite often, too.

I think that is only natural.

No matter how good a garment is, if its price moves too far away from reality,

there is a line that cannot be crossed by preference alone.

so this time,

While preserving the concept behind this jacket,

I wanted to make something that could be chosen more realistically in everyday life.

A cotton-rayon body lining, cupro sleeve lining, and neatly finished narrow piping.

I love this view that appears when you turn a half-lined jacket inside out.

 

The carefully hand-felled, broad-bean-shaped armhole.

And the beautiful sleeve underarm, neatly secured with pick stitching so the seam allowance does not bunch up.

these are hidden details, but I believe a garment’s refinement reveals itself in this kind of finishing.

 

That said,

and we absolutely did not want to steer it toward looking cheap.

This was a crucial point for us,

lowering the price and lowering a garment’s level are two entirely different things.

In the world,

and keep the price down in exchange.

They remove the structure, cut back on the lining, reduce the work,

many end up as “something that looks like a jacket.”

But with clothes like that,

It may look good at first, but you can tell as soon as you wear it.

Light, but unreliable.

Soft, but without structure.

comfortable, but lacking tension and refinement as a result.

In other words,

It would make the wearer look careless.

this was the one thing I wanted to avoid.

That is why, for the material,

newly developed for this edition

Double-Layered Cotton-Linen Cloth It uses

The contrast between dry cotton-linen and the luster of the buffalo horn buttons.

each buffalo horn button has its own character, gaining more luster the more it is used.

 

Woven from cotton and French linen,

but it is a double weave with fullness and resilience.

when you hear “double weave,” it may sound heavy,

This fabric is actually the opposite:

Because it contains air within the weave, it is lighter than it looks.

and it is not merely lightweight.

Because linen gives it body,

the structure necessary for a jacket remains firmly in place.

Because it has the softness of cotton,

and does not impose awkward tension when worn.

It has a dry, clean hand against the skin,

It is less likely to cling even during sweaty weather.

Yet it does not look like an extension of a thin, flimsy shirting fabric.

Lightness, coolness, structure, refinement.

I wanted all of these elements to coexist without compromising them as much as possible.

A collar constructed as a single piece, omitting the crescent-shaped collar stand.

This creates a soft, natural roll.

The body attachment and shoulder seams are finished with hand stitching.

Hand stitching creates its characteristic ease, allowing it to follow the body’s movement naturally, like action pleats.

 

Spring/summer clothing

Because it becomes thinner, there is no room for concealment.

you can create an impression through weight, thickness, and layering.

In autumn and winter,

but spring and summer are different.

It must stand on its own as a single layer,

It must look polished as a single piece.

That is precisely why,

The choice of materials directly becomes the garment’s persuasiveness.

The tailoring is the same.

Thread loops to provide an appropriate amount of ease in the lining.

 

A framed vent made without cutting the seam allowance.

and when considering alterations, I believe this is how it should originally be made.

 

this time as well, it uses a half-lined construction,

For the body lining,Cotton × rayon、

the sleeve lining uses cupra stripes.

Furthermore,

piping, bar tacks, and hand stitching on the underside of the collar and the back shoulder seamssuch as

is that we have carefully worked on the unseen parts too.

even at this price point,

The reason we did not cut corners there

when the unseen details are omitted, it ultimately shows in the appearance as well.

clothing is a curious thing:

Even without looking at the specifications,

people can somehow sense whether a garment is properly made.

That, perhaps,

The unseen effort

because it has changed into an impression that shows.

when you throw it on,

“It somehow looks properly made”

its true nature lies in precisely those qualities.

this time’s Directors Jacket

Rather than simply being the previous version in a different fabric,

A piece that brings the concept of this pattern closer to reality

That is what I believe.

It is more accessible than the previous one.

but that does not make it a simple garment.

Rather, it is precisely because we do this much at this price,

It has meaning.

it is not an inexpensive garment.

But,

is a garment whose higher price can be properly explained.

Wearing a jacket in the hot season

it also means pushing things a little.

That is precisely why,

I want to make garments whose deliberate excess has real meaning.

Nor is it merely lightweight.

It is not simply cool.

Even so, there is a reason you want to throw it on.

It is a spring/summer jacket of that kind.

 

cantáte 松島 紳