A good linen shirt feels cool right down to the seams.
Good evening. This is cantáte’s Shin Matsushima.
Linen shirts,
There are countless such shirts in the world.
Cool.
Lightweight.
It is easy to wash and convenient.
That is certainly true.
But
If that were all, honestly, any brand’s would do.
<cantáte>
COL : NOIR , MILK
¥59,400 TAX IN
what I want to make is
Not “a shirt you wear because it is cool,”
is “the shirt that makes you wait for summer to arrive so you can wear it.”
This time’s Linen Shirt
at first glance, it is very basic.
Yet,
The more closely you examine it, the less it resembles an ordinary shirt.
because it has been garment-washed, you can wear it without worrying about shrinkage.
The first thing that catches the eye is
but an edge stitch running at 3 mm.
it is neither 5 mm nor 7 mm,
The reason we use this width, which could be called an awkward middle ground, is that
because this width offers the most elegant appearance while still providing presence.
if too narrow, it looks insubstantial,
if too wide, it becomes overly casual.
It is only a few millimeters, but
that difference greatly changes the shirt’s character.
and in this shirt,
rather than with ordinary enclosed seams,
The seam allowances of the sleeves and armholes
They are finished with “butt-jointed enclosed seams.”
the uniform puckering from top to bottom is the appeal of the butt-jointed enclosed seam.
as a result,
at right angles to the seam allowance,
Beautiful, well-balanced puckeringappears.
it is not only about visual beauty.
As the seam allowances settle differently,
they naturally provide greater freedom of movement for the arms.
in other words,
These details are not solely for beauty;
has real meaning for comfort as well.
This kind of “invisible rationality”
is something I believe good clothing needs.
The silhouette
with a boxy shape and generous room across the body.
the hem has a front-to-back difference,
When walking or when catching the wind,
It is designed so the fabric moves naturally.
These two photos show the inside, but the enclosed seams are as beautiful as those on the outside.
I believe it is rare to find something this refined.
If another brand did this, I would probably be jealous.
carefully folding it in all the way to the edge of the sleeve placket.
we use floating interlining for the interfacing,
Moreover,They are blended in with a half-bias finish.
Hand-attached shirt buttons have become rare.
This is not something that can simply be obtained by paying for it.
It is not a relationship of “I’ll pay you, so please do it.”
are the result of work built on trust.
The buttons, too,Every Takase shell button is attached by hand.
most people may not notice.
But
These accumulated details create that “something feels good” moment the instant you put it on.
A textbook-like triple-turned hem stitch, with no puckering.
One of my favorite shirt details is the applied front placket.
is a smooth linen with very few slubs.
The fabric
using first-grade flax from Normandy, France.
we carefully spin it using the wet-spun method,
By suppressing fuzz with our original dyeing technique,
with a look that retains linen’s refreshing coolness while conveying a subtle luster.we have finished it
While retaining linen’s characteristic ruggedness,
never becomes too casual.
That balance
I believe, are quintessentially cantáte.
the clothes you wear in summer,
The simpler they become,
there is no room for shortcuts.
Precisely because of that,
That is why these are “clothes that look ordinary, but aren’t.”
it makes the biggest difference.
When I was younger,
all linen shirts looked the same to me.
But now,
you can no longer see it that way.
Having a discerning eye,
It is troublesome, after all.
cantáte Shin Matsushima
