The Shape of Waste.
Good evening. This is cantáte Matsushima.
Cargo pants,
but where does necessity end and excess begin?
More pockets are more convenient,
more details also make them look more “authentic.”
but,
When you ask whether every one of them is truly necessary,
feel slightly different, too.
The pants and jacket this time
That was where we began thinking.
<cantáte>
COL : NOIR , D/GREEN
¥99,000 TAX IN
COL : NOIR , D/GREEN
¥71,500 TAX IN
The base was the M-51.
this is one of the most accomplished pieces in military wear.
pockets for functionality,
Tape for its intended use,
A structure designed for ease of movement.
everything has a reason.
That is precisely why,
I felt there was no point in simply reproducing them as they were.
First, the pants.
We have retained as many details as possible.
But we took the silhouette in a bold new direction.
Wide. substantially wide.
Worn low on the hips,
It is fine if the hem drags slightly.
That balance feels just right for now.
Hidden snaps, indispensable to military wear.
If the heads of the snap buttons are visible, they catch the light.
Because it would announce its presence on its own, we keep it off the exterior.
A bell-shaped TALON zipper.
Nickel is nice, but the muted gold of brass is better.
that it does not catch too much light; this restraint feels very military.
What is distinctive is
a tape hanging from the side pocket.
This tape is known as a hemostatic tape, but originally, this is a detail intended to control bleeding in the event of an injury.
It is extremely practical in terms of use,
this time, we have slightly changed its role.
For now,
It is there to create “movement.”
Those who do not use it can pass it through the opening and tuck it inside so that it remains hidden.
since it exists purely as a function, you can choose whether to show it on the outside.
It sways as you walk,
It catches the eye.
We keep it solely for that purpose.
It may be unnecessary, in a sense.
but,
Sometimes that excess is what defines a garment’s impression.
and the jacket.
This one, in contrast to the pants,
we have pared back the details.
Without worrying about wrinkles,
It would be nice to have a jacket that can be washed at home.
That was where the idea began.
The fabric combining cotton and hemp
with a dry, rugged texture.
It softens the more you wear it, It gradually adapts to the body.
with a cotton-rayon lining.
Smooth to pull on,
it also provides reliable moisture absorption.
Because it is washed as a finished product,
but with puckering built in from the start.
Not something that emerges later,
a state of completion from the very beginning.
And from there,
Its character changes with the person wearing it.
A collar hanger loop—always nice to have.
A half-lined construction, with a bag-style waist pocket.
It remains lightweight while still ensuring ample storage.
Double-welt pockets, sized to comfortably fit an iPhone.
the structural seams are finished with felled seams.
The deeper the creases become as it is worn, It gradually becomes more three-dimensional.
with a slightly elongated boxy silhouette.
Easy to throw on like a coverall,
Yet it looks refined in its own way.
We aimed for the middle ground.
Buffalo buttons.
I like that indescribable texture that does not shine too much.
These two,
both made from the same fabric.
The trousers retain their details, the jacket is pared back.
Though what we do is different,
We are thinking about the same thing.
A small inseam stitch.
A part I like in both cargo pants and jeans.
In slight distortions and fluctuations, you can see the work of the hand.
A side pocket with one-way pleats.
Securing capacity while controlling the volume.
without this, cargo pants cannot begin.
If you ask whether it is practical,
to be honest, perhaps it is not quite that practical.
but,
If you choose clothes purely for practicality,
there are plenty of other options.
If there is a reason to choose this despite that,
I think that is **“atmosphere.”**
D/GREEN is a two-tone blood-staunching tape.
Somewhere,
yet with the atmosphere of a scene from a film.
Military in character,
Just slightly removed from reality.
It looks like something that person would wear.
it looks like something that person would wear.
When you feel that way, This garment is already complete.
Double-knee pleats. They move naturally with the knees.
The old me,
I feel I may have demanded too much meaning from clothing.
there is a function,
There is a reason,
something you can truly accept.
Of course, that is important too,
but that alone is not enough.
A little unnecessary detail, an inexplicable sense of wrongness.
Those kinds of things,
it is what remains most of all in the end.
Looking at the tape hanging from the hem,
whether you think it looks good or feels unnecessary.
Looking at a wrinkled jacket,
whether something feels casual or refined.
With someone who shares that sensibility,
I think we’ll probably see eye to eye.
cantáte Matsushima Shin
