Let’s start with denim.
When a season begins, I first think about what to put together.
In my case, the answer is always pants.
Hello.
I'm Tomioka from cliché.
Even if your top changes, even if your shoes change, things surprisingly work out if your pants are right. For me, pants are the foundation for thinking about what to wear each season.
At such a time, an item arrived from cantáte that makes you want to say, “Start here.”
This denim has been continuously produced since the brand was founded.
WW II T-Back JacketThe pants are Denim, among other styles. Straight, Tapered, and Flare TrousersThe three styles are now complete.
When you think of cantáte, it's denim, after all.
What we're using this time is a denim fabric reconstructed from cantáte's unique perspective, based on 1950s LEVI’S 501XX denim.
Taking the atmosphere of the period into account, even the warp tension and yarn count have been adjusted. It has a convincingly substantial denim appearance, yet feels dry and light to the touch. That gap between appearance and comfort is another interesting aspect of this fabric.
Rather than simply reproducing denim from the past, the aim is to make something that can truly continue to be worn in modern life.
Retaining the virtues of the past, while wearing it as clothing for today.
I think that's what cantáte's signature denim is.
This time, we'll look at these denim pieces one by one.
<cantáte>
"WW II T-Back Jacket"
¥71,500 TAX IN
The design is based on the S506XXE, commonly known as the “war model.”
The “T-back construction,” which at the time existed only in larger sizes, was deliberately adopted. Details found on the original, such as the center-back seam and cinch back, have been carefully incorporated.
What is interesting lies in the finer details.
The collar retains slightly meandering stitching, and even the left and right box stitches differ in shape when examined closely.
“Is this misaligned?”
That may be how it looks at first. But in fact, everything was made deliberately.
If you wanted to make them clean and uniform, you could do so endlessly today. Even so, they have deliberately avoided over-refining them, retaining even the “variations” and “incongruities” seen in vintage pieces from the period.
What has been reproduced is not only the specifications, but even their imperfections.
This is where I feel cantáte's character.
The fabric is moderately relaxed from the start, so it doesn't have that denim-jacket feeling of having to wear it in first. It settles into the body from the very first day, while still leaving plenty of room for fading and the changes that come with age.
It has a vintage atmosphere. But it isn't simply tracing something from the past.
Wearing the virtues of the past as clothes for today.
Every fine detail, as well as the comfort, has been considered with that in mind. When I look at this jacket, I feel cantáte's character in it.
<cantáte>
"Denim Straight Trousers"
¥49,500 TAX IN
The silhouette is a classic straight fit based on the 501XX.
Among cantáte's denim pants, these are the fullest in width, but they're a little different from what are generally called wide-leg pants. Neither too wide nor too slim, they settle naturally into the wearer's build and style.
In the end, this is the kind of straight fit you can rely on most.
Whether with sneakers, leather shoes, or sandals, it works with anything and has the versatility to properly accommodate whatever you're wearing that day.
And BLACK is denim sulfur-dyed all the way through the weft.
Rather than simply fading to a whitish shade with wear, the depth of the black remains as it gradually develops a richer, more dimensional character.
New black isn't the finished form—I also want to enjoy the black that comes after it's been worn.
Precisely because these are denim jeans you will wear repeatedly as a staple, they are a pair you can live with through every stage of their evolution.
The front features a classic button-fly closure.
They retain the substantial character of denim, while feeling softer to wear than you might expect. Finished with a one-wash treatment, they can be worn comfortably from the start without worrying about significant shrinkage.
For those choosing cantáte denim for the first time, and for those who have already worn many pairs of denim.
When in doubt, start with this pair.
Even as trends and your mood for the day change, these are the jeans you will ultimately want to wear again. I think Straight Trousers is that kind of denim.
<cantáte>
"Denim Tapered Trousers"
COL : INDIGO
¥49,500 TAX IN
The silhouette is based on the W40-inch version of the renowned 505.
By deliberately using a larger size as the base, we leave ample room through the waist and thighs, then shape the line so that it narrows gradually toward the hem.
They are tapered, but not tapered to make you look slimmer.
The room through the waist and hips means they pair well with a T-shirt or sweatshirt, while a tucked-in shirt and leather shoes also come together naturally.
For casual occasions, or for days when you want to dress up a little.
A tapered fit that does not dictate how you should wear it.
I think that degree of freedom is just right for this pair.
This is the longest-running model in the denim series.
This tapered silhouette, with its center crease, accentuates its refined character.
From a clean waist to a naturally relaxed seat.
They taper gently toward the hem, creating an elegant impression without feeling overdone.
I am not comfortable with slim pants.
But I want denim pants with a mature, refined silhouette.
These are recommended for those who feel that way.
It creates an ease that cannot be achieved with a true-to-size fit, and the slight added volume brings a relaxed atmosphere to your outfit.
At the same time, the silhouette itself is neatly composed, allowing for styling that is not overly casual and conveys a sense of relaxed sophistication.
<cantáte>
"Denim Flare Trousers"
¥49,500 TAX IN
Its base is the W40-inch version of the celebrated 517.
Taking that balance into account, this pair was reconstructed using contemporary sizing and patternmaking, and cantáte has continued to make it for many years.
And the appeal of these pants lies in the silhouette.
Dimensionally, there is no difference between the knee width and hem width. In other words, if you look only at the numbers, they are straight-leg trousers.
And yet, when worn, the hems appear slightly wider when viewed from the side or at an angle.
Rather than the obvious flare of what are commonly called flare jeans, they only give the impression—depending on the angle at which you stand or move—of “Wait, are they flaring slightly?” I think that ambiguity is what gives these pants their sensuality.
They do not make an excessive statement. But they are also slightly different from ordinary straight-leg jeans.
That is precisely why I would like those who feel unsure about flare pants to try them once. They are far more natural than you might expect, and I think you will discover a slightly different way of seeing denim than before.
This pair is finished with a one-wash treatment. The fabric is already comfortably broken in from the start, while still allowing you to fully enjoy its aging from here on.
BLACK uses sulfur-dyed black yarn for both the warp and weft.
Although these are rugged denim jeans, there is a certain sensuality in the silhouette and the character of the black. That balance is part of what makes this pair unique.
Looking at a new pair makes you want to see how it will evolve from there.
The way the color fades and the way the creases form differ from person to person.
Even denim made from the same fabric will not develop in the same way.
Straight, Tapered, Flare.
They are all made from the same fabric, yet they look completely different when worn.
The shoes will change, as will the tops I want to pair with them. Simply choosing one pair of trousers naturally opens up the imagination for the outfits that follow.
Now, which denim should I start with this year?
The time spent thinking about such things is part of the excitement of a new season.
cliché 冨岡
