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Keep the excitement alive.


Changes in the belt over time.

So many men, so many opinions.


This is Kinoshita from cliché.

I had something to do earlier, so I went to the office, and...

Matsushima-san was ironing clothes.

I was wearing it over my denim, so I took a quick look at it and studied it while I finished my errands.

Now, question time! So, I'm planning to write today.

I asked him a lot of questions about the suit he's currently writing about.

Ah, I was excited.

So today I would like to introduce you to this suit.


"The Noble Jacket"

¥210,000 (¥231,000 TAX ​​IN)

"The Noble Pants"

¥90,000 (¥99,000 TAX ​​IN)

teeth? High! ?

Hey, I don't wear a suit!

If you think so, please don't close the window (lol)

Although the suit is developed every season, we try to keep it in line with the times.

After repeated minor changes, this season it has a highly versatile finish that can also be used alone.

According to the description,

"Merino wool is densely woven and fluffed to the limit to give it a smooth texture and a glossy finish, so it maintains its elegance. There's no cutting corners."

Yeah. I know it's good, but why is it at this price?

The material is certainly great. The silhouette is also good.

It also captures the luster and looks beautiful when exposed to natural light.

Honestly, you know it's good the moment you see it.

If so, where does it depend?

I guess I didn't write about it, but I decided to ask about it and do some research.

By the way, both the top and bottom are now only 48.

It's really comfortable.

Of course, the quality of the fabric comes from its appearance and the cotton/silk raw silk lining,

This is more of a matter of wearability.

Of course, it also excels in ease of movement.

From a formal point of view, it is nothing but formal to us.

Some people don't usually wear it, and if possible, they wouldn't want to wear it.

But what is that formality?

Actually it's just a jacket and pants. And there is no one who doesn't dress like that.

Even recently, the desire to wear them has increased due to movies and various other influences.

I thought so too.

That's why I felt so excited when taking styling shots,

Most of all, I was surprised by how comfortable it felt to wear while moving.

A formal image is just a preconception.

We had a special talk about patterns and sewing.

It's easy to understand, so I'll focus on pants.

I will explain based on this situation. .

It might be hard to understand because it's folded, but I'll try my best to write it down.

The cutout of the pattern I was shown had a straight line on the sides (both ends) and the part that corresponds to the crease in the photo.

However, in real life it swells from the hips down, and from the knees to the calves there is a continuous in-curve, out-curve, and in-curve.

Now, why is this happening?

(I don't understand, and I don't understand so much that I want to run away.)

No matter how much I look at it, I don't know.

I'm not saying that this condition is normal; for example, denim and chino pants are often straight.

However, when it comes to slacks and dress pants, those with this curve are the correct answer.

It would be a bit of an understatement to say that this is the correct answer, but this one is overwhelmingly more comfortable and cool.

Is it a pattern?

But there's no seam, no answer at all.

Hands up. So I was surprised and had a demonstration. .

Unfortunately I don't have any photos from that time,

I did as I was told to cut the same fabric and prepare the iron.

Cut it to make the pattern, press it, iron it to draw the curve after completion, and spray it with a mist.

Then, the fabric begins to bend.

I thought it was stretching, but it seems that there is no change in the overall volume or dimensions.

I was surprised, but it seems that this is called ``habit removal.''

Please check it out if you like.

It is a very labor-intensive task that requires a craftsman to complete for 1 to 2 hours.

By doing this, you can create pants with a beautiful silhouette and a good grip on your legs. The fact that it sticks well to your feet means that the hem doesn't rise even when you lift your feet.

After that, I looked at articles and videos on the internet, and I was like, ``Wow,'' and here I am.

The same goes for the jacket.

However, in the case of a jacket, there are more areas such as the neck, sleeves, and body.

This means that we are going through an even more daunting process.

There is a huge difference in how the neck area looks and how the sleeves fit.

This suit is made in a suit factory.

Even when it comes to pants, it seems that even if you ask a factory that makes casual clothes to do this, they won't do it for you.

In fact, even if there are people who can do it, the labor costs won't match the price, so they'll have to compare it on a like-for-like basis.

Another way to do this seems to be to take a large piece of fabric and insert darts between the front and back sections, but that would make it spread out a bit and have a big impact on the appearance, making it not as good as the product originally imagined. It will be a bit of a compromise.

After doing some research, I found a way to curve the cross-section of the pattern and sew it in that direction, but in that case, the seams would just be uneven and wouldn't have the curve or roundness that I wanted.

It's deep.

Because the fashions of "dress" and "casual" are side by side,

I am keenly aware that it is necessary to know these parts.

If things continue like this, my senior in the dress department will call me an octopus again.

I'm learning every day.

The way the shoulder line fits, the fit of the sleeves, and the collar are designed so that no matter who wears it, it will fit without lifting.

The back view of the naturally shaped body can also be done using the previous method without adding darts.

The double-breasted design allows it to be worn open.

There is a strap on the inside.

side vents.

The matching pants are loose, so they fit well.

In addition, it doesn't get in the way even when you put your hands in your pockets, which makes it look cool.

In addition, for the lining, we used silk/linen, but this season we have changed to cotton/silk raw silk. It also feels great on the skin.

Go around all the way.

Pants with two tucks and a neat drape at the hem.

There are no belt loops, and it is adjustable with side adjusters.

By the way, I'm wearing a size 48.

My body type is normally 44, maybe 46.

If you size up your denim or chino pants like this and wear them, you will definitely get wrinkles. However, these pants and jackets don't wrinkle even if you size them up.

Then, when I look at the photos of the shoes being worn, I feel like I can understand the meaning of these steps.

They're not just suit pants, they're just really beautiful pants.

I'm glad that while I was very particular about both the top and bottom, the finish was designed to be worn alone as a casual look.

A jacket or a college sweatshirt with denim looks like a good styling option.

It is a double-edged sword item where the large doubles as the small.


cantate "The Shirt" ¥42,000 (¥46,000 TAX ​​IN)

In "Darjeeling Express," which has recently become my favorite movie,

Everyone was wearing suits and custom-made Louis Vuitton bags.

It's a very Wes Anderson worldview.

Among them, Adrien Brody is incredibly cool.

White shirt, leather shoes, gray suit, sunglasses and necklace.

Come to think of it, Arctic Monkeys also wear suits when they perform live...

After seeing that, I have become more and more interested in suits.

It may be shallow, but leave the entrance,

There are still many things I need to know, so I am learning every day.

Keep the excitement alive.

The habit is removed so that the wrinkles are reduced when worn.

I'm sorry to say this, but the industry term for it is "kill your habits."

*I was going to introduce another pair of pants made of the same fabric, but it got too long, so I'll do it at a later date. .



cliché kinoshita

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