Techniques and clothes that I want to leave behind.
It was my fault for getting serious.
I just realized that I don't have a Ron T.
Hello.
This is Kinoshita from cliché.
As you know, cantate uses original fabrics.
I have introduced in each blog that it is elaborate,
A newly arrived coat.
The fabric used for this coat, ``Genuine Pile Melton,'' is amazing.
Without further ado, let's talk about the fabric.
A herringbone fabric with a double weave pile weave that is said to be unique.
Made of 100% wool with Super160's warp and lambswool weft.
The image is that the warp improves the overall texture, while the weft leaves a firm pile.
Compared to regular pile pile, the materials used are very luxurious, so it is delicate to the touch.
It can be said that this is a very cantate-like piece of clothing.
It's great so far, but this isn't where I was impressed.
I felt that the amazing point was the processing process from when the dough was completed until it was finished into a usable dough.
From yarn to fabric, normally you move on to making clothes, but
It is said that the completion of this fabric comes after this processing.
Of course, you can tell by looking at it, but you can tell by touching it,
The fabric has an incredibly rounded texture.
It's thick and very smooth.
The texture is not sharp wrinkles, but rather soft wrinkles.
It's not a fabric like that, and it has an overwhelming presence that makes you feel that it must have taken a long time to make it.
When I asked,
"This dough is so crazy, it's taking so long."
said Matsushima.
So, from here I will dig deeper in my own way.
First of all, I would like to say that
There are only a few companies in the world that can perform this processing, and only one company in Japan.
(!?)
After the base of the fabric is completed, we will apply the fulling and brushing process.
Just hearing it at first glance may make you think, ``Oh, that's right.''
The processing time is approximately 1 to 2 months.
If we don't prepare things properly, there will likely be delays in delivery.
The processing process involves washing the fabric to remove oil,
The process begins by placing the pieces between rollers and adding detergent and water to clean them so that they can be easily processed.
From there, we apply fulled carpet, which can simply be interpreted as compressed wool.
For example, if you have several tens of meters of fabric, you can reduce the area by applying fulling (compression) to it. When the area becomes smaller, the outside moves inward.
It becomes thicker, perhaps because the contents are packed tightly.
In addition, the softness and firmness of the fabric means that it can withstand the napping process that will be carried out later.
After the fabric is dry, it is finally brushed. This is the process of brushing hair.
With a roller-like machine, the number of rotations is adjusted according to the taste of the person.
Then, the fluff is removed and the hair is sheared.
Fluffing → Raising → Shearing → Fluffing → Raising →...
Repeat this process approximately 5 times. I feel like I'm going to lose my mind, but...
Moreover, the number of times seems to change depending on the season and lot. .
A very elaborate fabric that you won't find anywhere else.
It brings out the unique charm of natural fibers and provides exceptional comfort for the wearer.
Since there is only one company in Japan, the day may come when this technology will no longer be available.
We must not forget that cantate's clothes are also responsible for passing on these techniques.
The resulting fluffy, corduroy-like fabric is called genuine pile melton.
Originally, there was no fuzz, and you could just see the herringbone at a glance.
After completion, it has an elegant finish with a blurred and deep feel.
The chambray has different colors for the warp and weft, adding to the atmosphere.
They say it's expensive, but it's understandable when you listen to it properly.
By the way, the coats I will be introducing here are:
It seems like it would cost around 800,000 to 1,000,000 yen if made by other maison brands...
This is the honest price. It is sure to provide you with the highest level of satisfaction.
cantate
¥330,000 (TAX IN)
There are two types of coats that have arrived this time, starting with a duffel coat.
This coat has a loose and long length and a hood for an authentic finish.
Toggle storm patch, sleeve straps and large patch pockets.
It looks heavy, and in fact it can be said to be heavy.
When you put it on, it's thick but doesn't feel heavy; it's soft and stress-free.
The luster and drape are rich, making you want to wear it quickly and go outside.
There are 4 toggles.
Leather strings are often seen, but hemp strings are used to create a crude atmosphere.
The button on the front is carefully placed to prevent it from fluttering when opened and worn.
I'll post a photo of you wearing it later, but when you wear it buttoned up, the beautiful V-zone is really cool.
cantate
¥275,000 (TAX IN)
Next is this mac coat.
A mid-length coat with a simple, Hiyoku style that gives it a calm appearance.
Like the previous duffel, it has a fluffy feel.
The shading of the collar and flap pockets, and the curves of the sleeves give it an outstanding look.
I also like that I can keep a corduroy of the same color in my pocket and don't need gloves.
The inside is half lined and the liner is cotton cupra.
Cotton silk satin herringbone is used for the lining of the sleeves,
The sleeves are very comfortable to wear, and there is a lot of attention paid to the invisible parts.
When you look at the details that are hand-tied,
It seems that the creator's thoughts are clearly conveyed.
Wearing size: 48 (175cm)
CREDIT
cantate "The Band Collar Shirt" ¥48,400 (TAX IN)
cantate "Fluffy Pants" ¥45,100 (TAX IN)
Wearing size: 46
cantate "Crew Neck Sweater" ¥121,000 (TAX IN)
cantate "Denim Flare Trousers" ¥49,500 (TAX IN)
Wearing size: 44
Wearing size: 46 (175cm)
CREDIT
cantate "Turtle Neck L/S Shirt" ¥25,300 (TAX IN)
cantate "Denim Flare Trousers" ¥40,700 (TAX IN)
Wearing size: 48
CREDIT
cantate "Crew Neck Sweater" ¥121,000 (TAX IN)
cantate "Moleskin Trousers" ¥60,500 (TAX IN)
nine tailor "Curtisii beret" ¥8,800 (TAX IN)
It's an averagely cool coat, but all the talk about the fabric takes away from it.
That's how bad the fabric is.
Actually, when I learned a lot of things, I was shocked,
There is only one company in Japan that can do this processing. .
It's just a power word. lol
If the current craftsmen disappear, it will no longer be possible.
Mr. Matsushima says so, but won't the inheritance be inherited? When I asked,
This is inheritance that is learned by watching, so there are very few people who can do it. Is called.
Even though they say they make really good dough, it's expensive, and they rarely make it.
When there's no one left to ask,
At the same time, this technology was no longer inherited and began to decline.
If we don't make it, the industry will end.
It's such a wonderful technology, and I want it to remain.
That's why cantate never stops making these things. That's wonderful.
If you're particular about it, go for it.
As far as I know, there is no brand that focuses so much on things.
This is coupled with the unique skills of the factory and craftsmen.
You'll be surprised when you hear it, and you'll be moved when you touch it and wear it.
This is packed with technology that we want to preserve.
These are branded clothes that should be preserved.
cliché Kinoshita
