“Are all shirts really the same?”
Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.
Do you think all shirts are the same?
ButWhether the collar settles without twisting.
Whether the stripes line up neatly at the collar points.
They are determined by the precision of cutting and sewing measured in mere millimeters.
The conditions for making a good shirt are not readily visible from the outside.
They are revealed precisely in the less conspicuous reverse side, seam allowances, and fineness of the stitches.
The collar roll, the way the sleeves settle, the beauty of the stitching—
Everything is determined by how much care is given to the “unseen parts.”
Today, I would like to take a closer look at some of the “accumulated details” that cantáte considers important in making shirts.
There is always a reason why a shirt looks beautiful.
・Being cut perfectly straight
When the fabric is cut perfectly straight, the collar does not twist when sewn according to the pattern, and the stripes continue cleanly all the way to the collar points.
It may seem obvious, yet it is something many shirts do not achieve.
・The presence of a floating interlining
The collar and cuffs use a “floating interlining.”
Common fusible interlinings are bonded with adhesive, which makes the appearance stiff and may cause them to peel after repeated washing.
A floating interlining is an “independent structure” in which a cloth resembling serge is suspended and inserted.
As a result, it bends naturally with your movements and grows more comfortable against the body the more you wear it.
This construction is what allows the collar to roll beautifully while retaining a soft appearance.
The strength of a floating interlining is that the collar and cuffs settle without wrinkles even after repeated washing.
・Flat-felled armhole seams
the armhole is sewn by bringing the seam allowances together and enclosing them with a flat-felled seam.
Unlike a conventional enclosed seam,Because there is no difference between the inner and outer diameters, raising and lowering the arms is exceptionally smooth.
The seam allowances lie neatly and do not feel bulky against the skin.
It also increases strength and helps the shirt resist losing its shape over years of wear.
Precisely because it is an unseen area, it makes a difference to comfort.
・Fine stitch density
The stitch pitch is set finely.
The stitching is beautifully even, creating a refined appearance.
It is difficult to notice at a glance, yet it is an important element that influences the shirt’s character.
・The precision of edge stitching
The stitching on the cuffs and collar attachment is set right at the edge, along the “koba.”
It is a matter of just a few millimeters, but if this is done carelessly, the dimensions become inaccurate, the cuffs sit poorly, and the overall impression becomes unfashionable.
This is a key detail that clearly reveals the sewer’s skill and determines the shirt’s “character.”
・Shell buttons and hand-finished construction
All buttons are thick genuine shell buttons.
Rather than inexpensive, thin shell, we select buttons with substantial thickness, so their luster and presence are entirely different.
Furthermore, each button is sewn on by hand by a skilled artisan.
attaching the buttons by hand rather than by machine creates a secure thread shank and an appropriate amount of “play” between the buttons and the fabric.
Precisely because of this allowance,but the buttons fasten and unfasten smoothly, and the thread is less likely to break.
The difference may seem small visually,It is one of the important accumulated details directly connected to ease of care and durability.
・About garment washing
All of cantáte’s “washable” products undergo garment washing.
That is why, not only denim but also shirts can be washed at home without worrying about shrinkage.
In fact, this garment washingMany brands appear to do it, but in fact do not.
Because it requires both time and expense, it is often omitted.
ButYou can put it on with confidence from the very day you buy it.
Its size and appearance remain stable even after repeated washing.
We believe that sense of reassurance is the most important quality in everyday clothing.
The “character” created by all these accumulated details
Having read this far, you should now have a sense of what makes a good shirt.
A good sense of character is no accident.
It looks so natural precisely because of the accumulation of details.
cantáte shirts are made through a continuous accumulation of these small details.
The next time you put on a shirt,Take a moment to appreciate the collar’s roll, the way the cuffs settle, and the beauty of the stitching.
You will surely begin to see the reason it simply feels “good.”
The character of a shirt told by its fabric
If the shirt’s “construction” is its foundation, another essential element is the fabric itself.
This season, cantáte offers two main types of flannel shirts.
cantáte
Color : GREEN BASE / BLUE BASE / SAX BASE / PINK BASE
Size : 44 / 46 / 48
At first glance, it is simply a checked flannel.
ButYou can feel the difference the moment you touch it.as you might expect.
Flannel woven with loosely twisted warp and weft yarns in a relaxed weave.
By brushing the underside and trapping air between the yarns, we achieve a plump softness and lightness.
but offers an enveloping comfort, as though you were wrapped in a blanket.
It is not thick and heavy,Soft, yet dependable.
The ideal form of a flannel shirt, designed to be worn from early autumn through early spring.
The chest pocket is set at an angle, adding just a touch of playfulness.
The colors are 〈BLUE BASE〉 and 〈PINK BASE〉.
cantáte
Color : BLACK BASE / MILK BASE
Size : 44 / 46 / 48
At first glance, this is a classic, rugged work shirt.
By blending a small amount of “nep” into the yarn, a naturally layered depth of texture emerges.
The softness characteristic of flannel, with just a hint of individuality.
The texture grows richer with every wash, allowing you to enjoy the feeling of watching it develop into a piece that is uniquely yours.
The chest pocket has a flap, while the front placket features square buttons.
The details strike the perfect balance between ruggedness and refinement.
The colors are 〈BLACK BASE〉 and 〈MILK BASE〉.
It is understated, yet distinctive when you look closely.
This is a flannel shirt with precisely the “right amount of individuality.”
Rough Flannel Shirt (183cm Size: 48)
Brushed Nep Check Shirt (183cm Size: 48)
The “difference” you discover when wearing it
We have talked this far about “construction” and “fabric,” but the difference becomes clear when you actually put it on.
The collar rolls naturally, flattering the area around the face,
The cuffs follow the wrists without standing away from them, refining the silhouette.
The reason it looks “put-together” when you simply throw it on is the accumulation of thoughtful details.
The Rough Flannel Shirt creates an effortless mood even when simply paired with denim.
The Brushed Nep Check Shirt retains its presence even when worn beneath a jacket.
A flannel shirt can look genuinely stylish because its details are backed by thoughtful construction.
“All shirts are basically the same.”
Those who have felt that way themselves will surely notice the difference.
After all, the young Matsushima was exactly the same way.
But once you have learned to recognize the “difference,” there is no going back.
Having a discerning eye is gratifying, yet it can also be a little troublesome.
cantáte 松島 紳
