“Are all shirts the same?”
Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.
Do you think all shirts are the same──?
ButWhether the collar settles without twisting.
Whether the stripes line up neatly at the collar tips.
They are determined by cutting and sewing precision measured in mere millimeters.
The conditions for making a good shirt are not readily visible from the outside.
They are revealed precisely in the less noticeable backsides, seam allowances, and fineness of the stitches.
The collar roll, the way the sleeves sit, the beauty of the stitching──.
Everything is determined by how much care is given to the “invisible parts.”
Today, I would like to take a closer look at some of the “accumulated details” that cantáte considers important in making shirts.
There is always a reason why a shirt looks beautiful.
・Being cut perfectly straight
If the fabric is cut perfectly straight, the collar will not twist when sewn according to the pattern, and the stripes will continue neatly all the way to the collar tips.
It may seem obvious, yet it is something many shirts do not achieve.
・The presence of a floating interlining
The collar and cuffs use a “floating interlining.”
Common fusible interlinings are glued in place, making the appearance stiff and sometimes peeling away after repeated washing.
A floating interlining is an “independent structure” in which a cloth like serge is inserted while left unattached.
That is why it bends naturally with your movements and gradually molds to your body the more you wear it.
This construction is what allows the collar to roll beautifully while maintaining a soft appearance.
The fact that the collar and cuffs settle without wrinkles no matter how many times they are washed is a unique strength of a floating interlining.
・Felled armhole seams
the armhole seams are joined with the seam allowances butted together and then felled.
Unlike a standard felled seam,Because there is no difference between the inner and outer circumferences, raising and lowering your arms is very smooth.
The seam allowances lie neatly and do not feel bulky against the skin.
It also adds strength, making the shirt less likely to lose its shape even after long wear.
Precisely because it is hidden, it makes a difference in comfort.
・Fine stitch density
The stitch spacing is set finely.
The stitching is beautifully even, creating a refined appearance.
It is difficult to notice at a glance, but it is an important element that influences the shirt’s character.
・The precision of edge stitching
The stitching on the cuffs and collar attachment is set right at the edge, along the “cobble” seam.
The difference is only a few millimeters, but if this area is done carelessly, the measurements become inaccurate, the cuffs do not sit properly, and the overall impression becomes dowdy.
It is an important detail that clearly reveals the sewer’s skill and determines the shirt’s “expression.”
・Shell buttons and hand-finished construction
All the buttons are thick, genuine shell buttons.
Rather than inexpensive, thin shell, we select shell with substantial thickness, so the luster and presence are completely different.
In addition, each one is sewn on by hand by an artisan.
that attaching the buttons by hand rather than by machine ensures a secure shank, creating the right amount of “play” between the buttons and the fabric.
It is precisely because of this extra roombut the buttons fasten and unfasten smoothly, and the threads are less likely to break.
The difference may seem small visually,It is one of the important accumulated details directly linked to ease of care and durability.
・About garment washing
All of cantáte’s “washable” products undergo garment washing.
That is why, whether denim or not, you can wash the shirt at home without worrying about shrinkage.
In fact, this garment washingMany brands appear to do it, but actually do not.
because it takes time and costs more, it is often omitted.
ButYou can confidently put it on from the very day you buy it.
The size and appearance remain stable even after repeated washing.
We believe that sense of reassurance is the most important thing in everyday clothing.
The “character” created by all these accumulated details
If you have read this far, you should now have a clear idea of what makes a good shirt.
A good feel is no coincidence.
It looks that way naturally because of the accumulation of details.
cantáte shirts are made through a continuous accumulation of these small details.
The next time you put on a shirt,Take a moment to appreciate the collar’s roll, the way the cuffs sit, and the beauty of the stitching.
You’ll surely begin to see the reason it simply feels “good.”
The character of a shirt told by its fabric
If the shirt’s “construction” is the foundation, another essential element is the fabric itself.
This season, cantáte has prepared two main types of flannel shirts.
cantáte
Color : GREEN BASE / BLUE BASE / SAX BASE / PINK BASE
Size : 44 / 46 / 48
At first glance, it is simply a checked flannel shirt.
ButYou can feel the difference the moment you touch itas you would expect.
A flannel woven from loosely twisted warp and weft yarns.
The brushed interior and air held between the yarns create plush softness and lightness.
but offers a cocooning fit that feels like being wrapped in a blanket.
It is not thick and heavy,Soft, yet dependable.
The ideal flannel shirt, designed to be worn from early autumn through early spring.
The chest pocket is set at an angle, adding just a hint of playfulness.
The colors are 〈BLUE BASE〉 and 〈PINK BASE〉.
cantáte
Color : BLACK BASE / MILK BASE
Size : 44 / 46 / 48
This is, at first glance, a classic, rugged work shirt.
By blending a small amount of “nep” into the yarn, the texture gains natural depth.
The characteristic softness of flannel, with just a touch of individuality.
Enjoy the feeling of it developing into a piece that is uniquely yours as it gains character with every wash: your very own shirt.
The chest pocket has a flap, while the front placket features square buttons.
The details strike the perfect balance between ruggedness and refinement.
The colors are 〈BLACK BASE〉 and 〈MILK BASE〉.
It is understated, yet distinctive when you look closely.
This is truly a flannel shirt with “just the right amount of individuality.”
Rough Flannel Shirt (183cm Size: 48)
Brushed Nep Check Shirt (183cm Size: 48)
The “difference” you feel when wearing it
We’ve talked this far about “construction” and “fabric,” but you truly notice the difference when you actually put it on.
The collar rolls naturally, framing the face beautifully,
The cuffs follow the wrists without floating away, refining the silhouette.
The reason it looks “put-together” just by throwing it on is the accumulation of carefully considered details.
The Rough Flannel Shirt looks great even when simply paired with denim.
The Brushed Nep Check Shirt retains its presence even when worn under a jacket.
The reason you can think, “This flannel shirt actually looks great,” is that its details provide the proof.
“All shirts are basically the same.”
Those who have thought that way will surely notice the difference.
Because the same was true of Matsushima when he was young.
But once you know the difference, there’s no going back.
Having a discerning eye may seem gratifying, but it can also be a little troublesome.
cantáte 松島 紳
