Build-up and relaxation—both crafted with complete dedication.
Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.
When I make clothes, I am always moving back and forth between these two.
Constructed garments and relaxed garments.
I like both, and I need both.
Like tension and release, they reflect my “now” while maintaining a balance.
Today, these two garments at opposite extremes──
EX Wool Deep Skipper Shirt and Stupid Shaggy Cardigan the story of.
<cantáte>
”EX Wool Deep Skipper L/S Shirt”
COL: BLACK, GRAY, BROWN
SIZE: 44, 48
￥82,500- TAX IN
from the side of construction
This is “Something else disguised as a polo shirt”。
Polo shirts have a certain “dad’s day off” kind of resonance, don’t they?
It is convenient, but if you let your guard down, it can look sloppy.
But it is not as stiff as a shirt, nor as casual as a T-shirt.
I wanted to properly give form to the warmth that exists “in between.”
That is why I once stripped the polo shirt back to a blank slate.
The shape of the collar, the depth of the placket, the thickness of the yarn.
The result of completely dismantling it and rebuilding it from zero is this Deep Skipper.
It certainly looks somewhat like a polo shirt.
Yet it is quiet and lustrous.
Many polo shirts are cut-and-sewn and have no decreases, but Deep Skipper is “knitwear”.
The lines are refined with “decreases.”
That extra step creates a dignified elegance.
A triangular gusset is tucked under the arms to reduce the overlap of seam allowances.
Thanks to that, the sleeves fall naturally and move flexibly with the body.
The more unseen details there are, the more a garment’s reliability builds.
What we use is Super170’s ultra-fine wool。
The already-luxurious yarn is twisted into three-ply yarn and densely knitted at 14 gauge.
Even with the same silhouette, while other brands finish theirs at 300 g, cantáte uses 600 g.
Using more yarn is not inherently better.
But the ability to achieve the contradictory textures of “being densely packed yet fluffy” comes from having all the knitting technique, durability, and appearance in place.
The difference may be difficult to see at a glance.
That is precisely why I think the price may feel high.
But for those who can pick it up and feel its density and softness, it is surely proof of a “refined eye.”
Just as tomatoes of the same size can be watery or tightly packed with sweetness.
And another element supporting the “construction” of this garment is the stand collar.
With many knit polos, the neckline lies flat and begins to look stretched out over time.
But Deep Skipper gives the stand collar a three-dimensional structure by changing the knitting method.
That slight height makes the area around the face look cleaner and tightens the overall impression of the outfit.
Put into words, it is a small difference, but this is precisely what makes the garment “look composed” the moment you put it on.
The cuffs switch to a single row of ribbing, creating subtle shading while limiting stretch.
Throughout, unnecessary design is pared away, while the essential elements are made to stand out clearly.
The delicate adjustments characteristic of Japanese-made knitwear support the overall “quietness” of the garment.
You can also compete with an ultra-fine gauge, as they do in Italy.
but I don't find that kind of knitwear particularly appealing.
Knitwear has gauges that feel true to knitwear,
I believe there is a warmth that can only be created within it.
<cantáte>
COL: MIDNIGHT, KURT
SIZE: 44, 48
￥170,500- TAX IN
from the side of relaxation
At the other extreme,Stupid Shaggy Cardigan。
The name may be “Stupid (ridiculous),” but its construction is thoroughly sincere.
A fluffy temptation made entirely from natural materials.
This cardigan is knitted by combining silk and mohair, without using any synthetic fibers.
It is softly light, leaving a moist, lingering warmth against the skin.
Where synthetic fibers would normally be used for reinforcement, we deliberately finished it using only natural materials.
It takes time and costs more, but that is precisely what creates a comfort your skin remembers.
The pile settles and the texture deepens with wear.
And yet, shedding is almost nonexistent.
It is fine to wear a coat over it, and even if you brush against someone next to you on the train, you won’t inconvenience them.
There is virtually no need to worry about fibers from the inner layer coming loose.
The colors are deep, quiet MIDNIGHT and,
KURT as an homage to grunge.
It looks relaxed, yet has a certain refinement.
It is a piece made enjoyable by that contrast.
The pocket openings feature herringbone piping.
So we deliberately leave the cuffs and hem unbrushed all the way to the edges.
If you brushed the areas that need to stretch, they would lose their elasticity.
This kind of extra step benefits both comfort and appearance.
The common thread of “quietness”
The Deep Skipper leaves room within structure,
The Shaggy Cardigan brings refinement to ease.
Their approaches are completely different, yet they aim for the same place.
Both are clothes for wearing “quietness.”
When I was younger, I chased “visible coolness.”
But now, “felt coolness” interests me far more.
Yarn density, how it holds air, the warmth that remains against the skin.
It is a satisfaction that is difficult for others to understand, but that only you know.
Structure and ease.
We put our heart into making both.
That is,The essence of cantáte’s “quietness”are.
EX Wool Deep Skipper Shirt (183cm Size: 44)
EX Wool Deep Skipper Shirt (183cm Size: 44)
EX Wool Deep Skipper Shirt (183cm Size: 48)
Stupid Shaggy Cardigan (183cm Size: 44)
Stupid Shaggy Cardigan (183cm Size: 48)
Both It comes in two sizes: 44 and 48.
Some of you may wonder, “Why isn’t there a 46?”
But precisely because it is a stretchy knit, we wanted to offer a more focused size selection.
We had Ishibashi try both sizes 44 and 48, but the choice can be simple.
“Wear it fitted or wear it loose”—that’s all.
I think you can take it much easier when choosing a knit size.
Styling and afterglow
CREDIT
cliché ”WOOL LINEN UTILITY JACKET”
cantáte ”Fine Garbadine French Trousers”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Fine Garbadine French Trousers”
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cantáte ”Fine Garbadine French Trousers”
CREDIT
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cantáte ”Fluffy Crew Neck Pullover”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Denim Flare Trousers” -501XX - REBUILD VINTAGE
The Deep Skipper is beautiful even layered under a jacket.
The neckline opens just the right amount, making you look grown-up even without a tie.
By contrast, The Shaggy Cardigan is meant to be worn deliberately casually.
Simply throwing it on over a T-shirt, shirt, or denim jacket changes the atmosphere.
Neither makes a statement, yet both have a definite presence.
Because these are clothes that understand both “putting things in order” and “letting go.”
Quietness is not about doing nothing.
Doing only what is necessary, with care.
That accumulation enriches your everyday style.
Structure and ease.
Between these two temperatures,
I feel that reflects my mood right now.
Surely, depending on the mood of the day, you’ll want to slip into either one.
We want to continue creating “clothes with a sense of quiet” like these.
cantáte Songshima Shin
