The Unchanging Neckline—The Story of a T-Shirt Worn for Three Years

Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

Today, I would like to talk a little about why our T-shirts can be worn for so long.

It is embarrassing because it is dirty, but...

First, take a look at this photo.

One is a T-shirt from my own wardrobe that I have worn for three years. The other is new.
It has not been bleached, nor has it been treated to make it photograph well.
Just as it is.

But what I want you to look at is not the “color,” but the “neckline.”
Don’t you think it has held its shape?

■ Why the collar does not stretch

It is “normal” for a T-shirt collar to become loose and floppy after a few years of wear.
But cantáte T-shirts are designed with angles and tension that make them resistant to stretching.
The stitching method, the type of thread, and the resistance to pulling are all considered to help the garment last longer.

■ “Bartacks” at the cuffs and hem

The points where the stitching on the sleeves and hem intersect.
These areas often come under stress and begin to fray as you wear the shirt—something you have probably seen before.

Every point where the *stitches overlap* on cantáte T-shirts is reinforced with a *bartack*.
Simply having this in place prevents fraying and tearing before they occur.
It is an unobtrusive yet reassuring measure.

■ Set-in sleeves

There are two ways of attaching sleeves: “shirt sleeves” and “set-in sleeves.”
At cantáte, we use the same “set-in” construction for T-shirts as for jackets.

That is because it provides a wider range of arm movement.
It allows easy movement and is less restrictive to wear.
Incidentally, a shirt sleeve is suitable for shirts.
I will talk about this in more detail another time.

■ Flatlock binding construction

The shoulder interior and back of the neck are connected all the way around with a single strip of tape in this flatlock binding construction.
The seam allowances are sewn with tape enclosing them, running from one shoulder around the back of the neck to the opposite shoulder.

As a result,
 • providing a comfortable fit because the seam allowance does not touch the skin directly
 • increasing the strength around the neck while preventing stretching and loss of shape

This has the advantage of

When worn for a long time, the shoulder seams can also fail.

In fact, the shoulder seams on one of my own T-shirts eventually fell apart.

But it remains wearable because the flatlock binding is still doing its job.
This is an especially strong detail.

■ Bartacks at the collar seam, too

Please look at the hidden details, too.
There is also a bartack at the rib collar seam.
At cantáte, we do not overlook these “fragile points.”

In closing

A T-shirt is not disposable.
That is what I believe.

Rather than making one to replace every year, I wanted to create a piece you could wear for three years, five years, and even longer.
It is the accumulation of details that are not merely attractive but meaningful that ultimately makes a T-shirt with a lasting character.

The next time you pick up a T-shirt, take a moment to look at the inside and the direction of the stitching.
Surely, that is where you will find proof that it was made with care.

 

cantáte Matsushima Shin